The cedar choppers

On the first day of my Wildland Firefighter certification class, my instructor, a good 'ol boy from the piney woods of East Texas, stated very matter-of-factly in his thick Texas drawl, "Ever'time a cedar dies...an angel gits its wangs." The class let out a chuckle, none as loud as me. It's no secret that cedar (ashe juniper) is no friend to the firefighter. Drought stricken stands of Hill Country cedar are akin to crumpled up pieces of aged, dry newspaper whose leaves, once lit, are like little flaming puffy clouds that drift effortlessly in the sky on the slightest of breezes. They ride the air current to another cedar, hundreds, if not thousands, of feet away, light up and repeat the process.
Firefighters aren't the only ones not enamored with this tough little tree. Ranchers hate them. They continuously sprout up in their fields where their livestock graze overtaking the native grasses they feed on. Cattle won't feed on cedar. Nor will whitetail deer for that matter, unless starving. Goats may be about the only critter that will savor the leaves with gusto.
Then you have all the folks that claim cedar is depleting the aquifer of precious water, an argument that is debatable. And let's not forget the allergy suffers who are tormented every year by the cedar pollen that wafts in the air as a fine yellow mist seemingly clinging to everyone and everything.
So with all the unfavorable views facing cedar it's difficult to believe that at one time there was a group of hardy folks that truly loved it. It was their livelihood, their 'bread and butter' if you will. They are a small, almost forgettable, chapter in Central Texas history. They are the cedar choppers.
Cedar choppers, as the term simply suggests, chopped cedar for a living. These were sturdy folks that had grown up learning how to make a living from the land. It was no surprise they discovered a way to take advantage of a quickly renewable resource that proliferated all over the Texas Hill Country in the late 1800's.
First to arrive were the 'charcoal burners'. These folks figured out a way to manipulate cedar into charcoal. The charcoal was in great demand back in the day as it was used to heat stoves and flatirons. "The charcoal burners chopped green cedars, stripped the bark away and stacked the poles pyramid style in a pit or kiln. They left a hole in the top, tepee style, for the smoke to escape and then covered the wood with dirt. A fire was lit at the bottom of the kiln and then closed as the cedar smoldered for three or four days, until it was charred to perfection. The charcoal was then loaded onto wagons and sold in towns. It was slow, tedious work and the market was variable, but if the cotton or corn crops failed, charcoal was always money in the pocket"
The charcoal burners eventually became full time cedar choppers as the demand for charcoal waned. The advent of the Model T truck allowed people to harvest and haul their own cedar for making charcoal without relying on the charcoal burners. As well as the fact that folks slowly discontinued using charcoal to heat their stoves and flatirons. But more importantly, the invention and proliferation of barbed wire on the prairies arrived on the scene and the demand for cedar posts on which to attach this innovative fencing material increased most rapidly. Barbed wire in quantity was first made available in Texas in the 1880's. Thus helping facilitate the rapid enclosure of the vast open prairie land.(barbed wire has a fascinating history, believe it or not, and revolutionized a whole way of life-perhaps a future blog entry) So the use of fence posts on the plains and the demand to clear cedar from large ranches greatly expanded the market for folks chopping cedar.
Cedar fencing was certainly used prior to the introduction of barbed wire just not as efficiently. One early traveler noted, "From Bastrop to Austin the common mode of making fences(in 1855) was by planting cedar posts in a trench about eight inches deep, sinking in a picket deeper than the others at regular distances and binding the whole together at the top by nailing a strong piece of cedar on the tops of the pickets. The fence was not handsome, but it was quite durable." I may disagree with it not being 'handsome' but certainly know it to be durable , as the traveler noted. The construction method he is describing can be found at Rockmoor's barn area. I've been told that the Rockmoor barn was constructed in the late 1800's (anyone know differently?) so it is truly amazing to see that fence, for the most part, is still standing upright after 120 years or so.
However, barbed wire was faster and easier to erect without nearly as much effort. Thus the old cedar railing fences became a thing of the past. So naturally, the charcoal burners turned their endeavors to solely chopping and harvesting cedar for a living as there were endless miles of fenceline in Texas at the turn of the century.
Now, if you've ever had the opportunity to swing an axe and chop wood the 'old fashioned way' then you know how exhausting it can be. There were no gas operated chainsaws at this time, remember. Chopping wood with an axe is extremely physical work that requires a sound, sturdy stature. Imagine chopping cedar all day, every day. The cedar choppers got a reputation as tough folks; loners who lived deep in the woods with their families only coming to town to sell the fruits of their labors. One writer described as this, "The chopper who cuts and lives in the cedar is as true a mountaineer as his forefathers, who perhaps hailed from the Ozarks or the Blue Ridge Mountains in pioneer days. He has not been noticeably touched by what is known as present day civilization. He is a hardy specimen. His days in the open have hardened his muscles and given a healthy glow to his usually unshaven face...He reads very little...He lives in a small world, confined to the particular brakes where he cuts cedar, and including the families of the other choppers."
Ironically enough, the term 'cedar chopper' is sometimes used as a slur, akin to calling someone a 'redneck, hick or a hillbilly'. (apologies to all you rednecks out there Ha!) One historian explained the animosity towards the cedar chopper as a form of jealousy. That people envied the cedar choppers 'freedom from convention' and they were apt to call him lazy as he made his own hours, worked when he pleased and answered to no one. (and obviously anyone calling a cedar chopper lazy has never swung an axe) A cedar chopper was an independent contractor of sorts; paid for his product not his labor. So if a cedar chopper was inclined to work only half a day, well, he could.

There's a wonderful story written by Texas folklorist/naturalist Roy Bedichek, a contemporary and friend of J Frank Dobie, who writes about an encounter with an aging cedar chopper on one of his many solo camping trips in the Hill Country. Bedichek describes his physical stature in remarkable detail. "...the veins were as big as lead pencils or whipcords, and in the swinging of the arms these hard, huge, purplish blood vessels stretched and slipped under the skin...I noticed his hands, immense, bony and enormously veined over the backs and interiorly curved to fit an ax handle. The fingers looked as though they could never be straightened at all, and were hard enough to crack a seed tick...He told me that he couldn't do anything but cut cedar since that was all he had ever done except farm a little. I found that he was 86 years old and that here in this locality his father had put him to cutting cedar when he was only ten."
He went on to explain to Bedichek that a neighbor of his, 88 years old, had finally stopped cutting cedar and retired. Then the man promptly died. So the old cedar chopper confessed to Bedichek that it was 'better to do something".

As I hike around Rockmoor I notice the cuts to our cedar. Most are made by a chainsaw, a clean, straight cut, some very recent, some much older. But every so often, as I venture deep into the brakes of cedar I'll come upon an old, time worn tree and notice the cuts as jagged, axe hewn chops made by a human powered tool. I'll often wonder if it was made by a youthful Uncle Dee harvesting up posts for a load to mend a fence. Or perhaps older than that, maybe by his father, my great-great grandfather, Samuel to sell in town. Either way, it's very satisfying to notice such subtle clues scattered about this piece of land that hint to the grand history of days long gone.
As the days get cooler and shorter and I venture outside with my chainsaw to 'slay' the tree that encroaches a little bit more with each passing year, I can't help but be reminded of my ancestors and their relationship with this native Texas tree. I cut the cedar down because I see it as threat to my home and property, perfect fuel for the flames of a wildfire. While the industrious folks that lived on this land before me cut the cedar for profit and practical construction. But we both know the smell of the cedar, the sticky sap of a young cedar on your skin as you handle it, the sharp prickles at the ends of the leaves that force one to wear gloves and the sweet aroma of the smoke when you burn it. That'll never change.

So my conflicted, love/hate relationship with the cedar endures. But my respect for this tree continues as does my admiration for the simple, practical, hardworking pioneers of the Central Texas cedar brakes who carved out a living working the land.


'Till next time.

Sally Anne





* "The Cedar Chopper" by Walter J Cartwright, an essay that appeared in the Southwestern Historical Quarterly, Volume 70, July 1966 was used as a reference. As well, 'Adventures With A Texas Naturalist" (1947) by Roy Bedichek is one of may all time favorite works about Texas natural history and his story "Cedar Cutter" is worth checking out.

Reduce. Reuse. Recycle.....Duh.

As the death-grip loosens on this heat wave and we can all let out a long needed sigh of relief, we must remember the long term effects of this suffocating summer. Plants and trees have been lost and many will continue to be stressed until the rains come again. Populations in wildlife will plummet and take many years to return to normal. The soil has been deprived of water for so long that we will need torrential, flooding downpours to return it to its average saturation levels. Grasses and forbs that our livestock feed on are gone, forcing ranchers to sell off whole herds just to break even. The ever present threat of wildfire has reared its ugly head this summer, not soon to be forgotten. And most importantly, our lakes, rivers and aquifers are at alarmingly low levels.
I hope the 'take away' from this whole season for folks living in Central Texas, or all of Texas for that matter, is that water is the most precious natural resource we have. Without it, life would cease to exist. For those of us living in Texas, water cannot be taken for granted anymore, there are simply too many of us that depend on it. We, as Texans, can be sure of one thing...this type of weather pattern WILL repeat itself. Sooner than later, no doubt. Conservation is a choice we all need to pledge ourselves to. All of us must be mindful on our water usage no matter how mundane it may seem. It does add up.
One could certainly get political here and discuss future tax hikes on water, innovative water technology and conservation ideology, well drilling restrictions, industrial water consumption ect., ect. There are as many questions and concerns as points of view. But I ask each of you, 'what are YOU doing in your life to address this issue?' Think about it.
Now, just because you don't wash your car one month does that mean you can save a few acres of oaks? No. But what if 1000 people didn't wash their cars for several months? Think of all that water that could be used for something life sustaining. And no, golf courses are NOT life sustaining (- : Or, the next time you brush your teeth leave the water ON. Yes, that's right, leave it on. Fill up a bowl of water and then put it outside for the birds to drink. Wildlife, especially in Central Texas this year, are having to travel further and further away from their home ranges in order to locate water and food. This causes stress and population declines.
Or in the Spring, when you think about re-landscaping your yard, plant only native Texas heat tolerant species that require very little water. Lawns and gardens are the heaviest outlets for water usage for urban dwellers.

We've all heard it before: reduce, reuse, recycle. Pretty simple.

Conserving water by consuming less, wasting less and re-using more reduces costs and postpones or eliminates the need for expensive and environmentally damaging new dams or similar water projects. As well, water conservation is a cost effective way to meet increased water demands. A study by the LCRA (Lower Colorado River Authority) surveyed various methods of procuring additional water, including de-salination of brackish water in area aquifers, piping water in from an East Texas aquifer, building new reservoirs on the Colorado river and dredging the Highland Lakes to provide more storage. The LCRA determined that each of these is substantially more expensive on a per acre-foot basis, than investing in an additional water conservation program.
The results of such a program are best illustrated by our neighbor to the south, the city of San Antonio. In less than 20 years, San Antonio lowered water usage, per capita, from 225 gallons per day to 130, through an aggressive water conservation plan involving a rebate program. For every $ spent on conservation, San Antonio saved $3 it would have spent on buying, treating and redistributing water.
And just in case you'd like to compare numbers, the most recent studies I found showed Dallas at the head of the pack at 244 gallons per day, Round Rock at 206 gpd, Ft. Worth at 192, Austin at 172 and San Marcos at 124.
As many of you know, I myself utilize a rainwater catchment system on my house. Of course, when it doesn't rain, the only thing I catch is dust. Early last month I was forced to purchase 1500 gallons of city water to put into my cistern, something I hadn't had to do in 2 and a half years. I will be receiving another delivery next week. After doing some basic arithmetic, I discovered that I utilized, on average 28.8 gallons a day. Now, full disclosure, I had to 'break-up' with my garden this summer early on ( I was giving so much and getting nothing outta' that relationship) so I saved quite a bit of water there. Being on a catchment system forces you to be very connected with your water supply and very aware of your water usage. I'm constantly discovering new ways to save 'just a little bit more'.

Climate models project that Central Texas will receive less rainfall in coming decades, as well as the tributaries to the west and northwest that feed our rivers. Furthermore, the amount of water loss due to evaporation is projected to increase as average temperatures rise. Add that gloomy statistic to the report that the Texas population is projected to double by 2060, one can see the potential for disaster. For the record, the populations in the five county Austin area (Bastrop,Caldwell,Hays,Travis and Williamson) grew by over 40% from 2000-2010. That's some rapid growth, folks.

I know many of you have received recent rains. Cousin Julie in New Braunfels informed me of some good soakings that passed through last week. As well, friends and family in Ft. Worth told me of storms that brought rain too. Unfortunately, Rockmoor received virtually nothing from these passing clouds and it is as dry as ever here. And it goes without saying the fire danger is still extremely high. So please be reminded as you visit Rockmoor in the coming months to be very cautious. Something as innocuous as a charcoal grill or driving your truck in an open field of tall grass can have disastrous results now. We will need several good rains before the burn ban is lifted.

On a happy note, today is indeed the first day of Autumn! (September 23) and we can all look forward to some much needed cooler temps.

Until next time,

Sally Anne

One of a kind

Several years ago when I was searching for a site to build my house on I was keeping in mind things like: close to an existing road, near power lines, flat spot, good drainage, ect., ect. I wasn't thinking diversity of trees. Well, maybe I was hoping the area had something beside cedars. A nice giant live oak or pecan would have been ideal but since those are more likely to flourish near a streambed I was going to have to settle for a lesser tree, such as a red oak or shin oak. (our easement restrictions forbid construction, rightfully so, near a water source) A lovely red oak is certainly a beauty to behold, especially in the fall. However, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that I had chosen a spot at Rockmoor that happened to be the home of the biggest madrone tree on the property(at least in my scouting around)
The Texas Madrone(arbutus texana) is one of the loveliest, native ornamentals in the state. And it happens to be quite rare. While it lacks the ubiquity of our state tree, the pecan, and the grandeur of an old growth live oak it makes up in attention grabbing beauty. It is truly a welcome sight in a sea of cedar in the Hill Country. It is a multi trunked, 20-30 foot, evergreen tree, that favors the moist rocky soils and limestone based caliche of the Edwards Plateau. The thick, papery,peeling bark of the tree is its most distinguishing characteristic, for it reveals a polished red inner bark. In my 'Native Plants of Texas' book by Sally and Andy Wasowski, it is noted the change in bark begins each fall "when old skins peel away to reveal the soft cream colored new bark. The color then changes to peach to coral to Indian Red to chocolate and then peels away to start the process over".
Not only is the bark an eye catching attribute, but each Spring it blooms tiny bell shaped white blossoms that scent the air with a wonderful fragrance. Followed in the fall by bright, glowing orange/red edible berries. Birds of many species savor the delectable berries as do other wildlife. The berries are edible to humans as well, reportedly rich in vitamin C and zinc. Deer will even browse the dark green leathery foliage. I heard the young madrone referred to as 'deer candy'.
Botanically speaking, the madrone is a member of the Heath family, Ericanae. As such, it is related to blueberries, cranberries and azaleas. The Texas Madrone is one of more than a half-dozen species of madrones found primarily in California, New Mexico, the Mediterranean, Mexico and Guatemala. The Texas version is considered by many to be the same as the Mexican species which derive its name from the latin word, 'arbutus' meaning 'strawberry tree'.
Many scientists consider the Texas madrone to be a 'relict', or a species from an earlier time that managed to survive even after the surrounding environment had undergone significant change. Which is easily believable to me, being that the madrone looks unlike any other tree in Texas I've seen.
Because the inner layer of bark has such a smooth, pinkish, red/brown appearance the madrone earned many nicknames over time, some rather humorous. Most notably, Naked Indian tree and Lady's Leg. In Mexico the madrone is often referred to as Manzanita.
The wood is hard and heavy, but actually rather brittle and not very durable. Historically, the wood was used in making tool handles, stirrups, mine timbers and such. The Kickapoo Indians favored the madrone wood to make their deer calls. The tree's striking bark, which is high in tannins, was once very much valued in the tanning industry. In Mexico, both the leaves and bark were used at one time as astringents and diuretics. The roots were used in dyes as well. The 'Useful Wild Plants of Texas' book mentions the Tarahumara Indians of northern Mexico, using the berries of the madrone to produce and alcoholic beverage called 'tesguino' and using the fragrant blossoms to flavor their tortillas.
If you'd like to plant a madrone in your backyard so you can harvest your own berries for some homemade tesguino, think again. The madrone is notoriously difficult to transplant, much less germinate from seed. I read about one study that started out with 10,000 madrone seeds planted in carefully controlled greenhouse conditions. Only 2, of the 10,000 seeds germinated and became established. Madrone seedlings require very exacting soil and moisture requirements. Too little water at the outset and too much water later can spell doom for the madrone. Efforts at transplanting are difficult in part, it is thought, to the tree's tiny fibrous root system. As a result, madrones remain uncommon in most parts of our state and next to impossible to find at a local nursery. I did, however, learn of a fellow in Kerrville that specializes in madrones and has actually been very successful in propagating them.
The madrone grows extremely slow and can take over a century to attain an adult height of 20-30 feet. The one by my house has two 28" trunks that reach close to 20 feet tall, with a canopy spread of about 30 feet. The Texas Forest Service records the state champions as a 27 footer with a 38 foot canopy and 93" trunk, as well as a 45 footer, with 30 foot canopy and 70 inch girth. Both of these trees reside in the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend, where I have seen many large madrones before. They actually are able to flourish at altitudes of up to 3000 feet.
Kevin, our land manager with the City of Austin Wildlands Division, once told me that where you see a big madrone there are usually smaller ones within a short distance on the same elevation. I have been unable to find any documented studies of this claim. However...there are indeed about 6 smaller madrone trees within a short distance of the 'mother' tree. I've also explored the areas around other madrones on the property and have found the same to be true. Kevin has mentioned to me many times that madrones are "very special trees worth keeping an eye on and protecting." He reminded me of how very lucky Rockmoor is to be home to this rare, beautiful tree.
With that in mind, this 'no-end-in-sight' drought has me concerned for the well being of my big madrone behind my house. Several smaller limbs have died and the leaves are most definitely showing signs of stress. Although the madrone is extremely heat tolerant, this year's record breaking heat is taking its toll. I will most certainly have to start watering soon. But then I am reminded of the drought of 1950(much worse than current condition) and suppose my madrone was around then and it survived.

Till next time,
Stay cool and pray for rain.

Sally Anne

First time visitor at Rockmoor

I've lived in Austin long enough to know how uniquely 'weird' it is. There are so many quirky, odd aspects of this city that truly make it one-of-a-kind. For the past few years, I've heard this tale of 'wild tropical parrots' that dwell in the downtown area and are often spotted by delightfully surprised onlookers. Being an amateur birder myself and having never seen one of these wild 'parrots' I thought perhaps I had fallen prey to another urban legend. Several friends of mine swore that, no!, they did indeed exist and can be spotted with a sharp eye all over town. I had pretty much given up on finding this exotic feathered creature. Until Monday.
I have a morning ritual that includes feeding the chickens and dogs, watering the garden, and filling up the various bird feeders I keep. Usually when I go out to fill up the bird feeders all my feathered friends fly away in a panic thinking me some giant raptor that is going to attack them. I have about ten different species of avians that frequent my feeders on a regular basis and every so often will find a new, unusual one out there grabbing a snack. So, much to my surprise as I'm pouring birdseed into my tube feeder I look up and gasp. Not even four feet away away from me is an electric, neon green and yellow parakeet!! The kind one sees in a cage as someones beloved pet. What!?? At first I immediately assume it has escaped the confines of a tiny cage and found its' way to my bird sanctuary. Then I recalled the famous 'parrots of Austin' and quickly went inside to consult with my bird books and the ever faithful Internet for a positive ID. After a few minutes of searching, there was no doubt that what I had perched in my cedar tree was indeed a Monk Parakeet. There are, I learn, about 700 of these birds living in and around the downtown area of Austin.
A native of South America, the monk parakeet started appearing in North America in the late sixties. One story I read says that they were imported as pets and a crate of them was dropped and busted open at the Kennedy Airport in New York releasing dozens into the wild. These 'escapees' quickly established a wild population on Long Island. They have been reported in several different states but Florida and Texas are home to the largest populations in North America, with Austin boasting the largest breeding population in the state.
The Austin birds may have come from an intentional release in the late 80's or early 90's. The 'legend' claims a woman named Janet Giles released 19 monk parakeets when they simply became too much for her to take care of, near Zilker Park. And from there the birds began establishing themselves all over the downtown area. According to the Travis Audubon Society, there are about 720 parakeets that live in the Austin area. I've heard about giant nests that they construct. Apparently they build very large, dome-shaped twig nests and are often occupied year round. They nest communally, yet construct separate entrances and chambers for each pair. How cute! A nest 'condo' may house up to 20 pairs of birds, sometimes more.
Many folks keep these birds as pets as they can be very animated, social and apparently good 'talkers'. An ornithologist with Texas Parks and Wildlife states that monk parakeets are on the top ten common caged birds people keep. And under optimal conditions a monk parakeet has a lifespan of 25-30 years. Not as long as a larger parrots(up to 75!) but certainly longer than the family Fido. I read, as well, that in captivity they bond closely with one person and are known for their loyal nature. Which reminds me of my Grandfather's pet parrot Stoop, who was not particularly nice to anyone. Except my Grandfather.
The monk parakeet gets its name, because compared with other parakeets, they are rather 'un-flashy'. Well, you could have fooled me. Because this bird certainly stands out among all the other birds at the feeder including the male Painted Bunting which looks as if he rolled in a rainbow. The Monk Parakeet is most certainly eye catching.
It's quite unusual that this bird has opted to stop by my feeder and bird bath. But even more curious is that he's been here for 5 days! I mean to say, he has not left the cedar tree that the feeders are hanging on. Every single time I look out the window or walk by he's still there just perched. He must be amused by all the avian activity that goes on out here. (And that fact that he has an endless supply of water and seed) Perhaps he just wanted to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and decided to take some vacation in the Hill Country at Rockmoor Bird Sanctuary. Where the feeders always full and the bird bath never runs dry.
I'll keep everyone posted on our little green friend and report if I find any macaws or pelicans in the near future.


Sally Anne

Drought. And critters.

If you follow this blog, then you're aware that I haven't posted in a while. I was hoping to have a second installment of the 'Wildflower Report' a few weeks ago. However, as I patiently awaited the Spring rains to arrive I began having a sinking feeling that La Nina wasn't about to let that happen. The second round of wildflowers never really materialized. According to the National Drought Monitor almost over half of Texas is experiencing 'Exceptional' drought conditions. The 'Exceptional' category is the most severe. It follows 'Extreme' if that puts it into perspective. 75% of all Texas counties are under burn bans.
The Hill Country is not faring well at all. Along with lack of rain, temperatures this Spring have been running much warmer than normal. Soil moisture is very low, stock pond levels are dropping at an alarming rate and evaporation rates are very high. The long range weather forecast indicates rainfall will likely remain below normal through Spring and early Summer as the storm track generally stays to the North of Texas (good news for all you Ft. Worth/Dallas folks)
Even if wetter conditions return as a result of increased tropical storms this summer, I've read we would need to see more than 5-6 inches of rain to just saturate the ground enough to have any significant runoff.
The Texas Forest Service and area fire departments have responded to over 9000 wildfires this 'fire season' that have burned more than 2.2 million acres and destroyed 400 homes. And just this morning, it was announced that the City of Austin has officially cancelled their Fourth of July fireworks display over Lady Bird Lake in downtown Austin, something that has never happened in the 35 years the city has been putting the event on. In fact, all public firework display permits have been denied.
Last week, the private land adjacent to the Travis County Park I work at caught on fire due to a faulty insulator on a utility line and burned over 200 acres, including some in the Park. The land is remote with little road infrastructure, not unlike parts of Rockmoor, and was difficult to control due to the challenge of accessing the flames. Two helicopters doing water drops, over 15 fire vehicles and members of the Texas Forest Service, with three giant bulldozers in tow, were called in to tackle the fire.
As if the Oak Hill fire earlier in the Spring wasn't enough to scare me, witnessing this wildfire up close really hit close to home. The dry junipers and water starved grasses are like gasoline awaiting even the tiniest spark to set it aflame. So very dangerous right now.

On a lighter note, this severe drought has also created quite another annoyance for me and my two loyal canine friends. My dogs have been suffering through a flea infestation like no other I have ever seen. Many dollars on preventative medications, flea shampoos and consultations to the vet have only recently helped the situation. My vet says she has never seen a flea season this bad. Ever. She explained that the drought has brought more wildlife closer to humans. These wild animals are seeking water and, most often, bring fleas with them that we would otherwise never see. Interesting concept, certainly makes sense to me.

I have certainly seen an increase in nocturnal visits to my garden recently and whatever it is fancies the green leaves of my pepper plants. I rabbit-proofed my garden several years back and hadn't had a problem until a few weeks ago. It appears a very hungry rabbit/rabbits are seeking out anything leafy with moisture and my garden has suddenly become the hot spot for succulent greens. Which is sad, because my peppers, a very heat tolerant plant, look as if they are dying every morning when I give them water. These are desperate rabbits if they have succumbed to nibbling on dry pepper leaves.

I've also noticed an increase in snake activity around my place. Don't worry, not any 'bad' snakes. Yet. Several rat snakes have been in close proximity of my house. Just this morning I received quite a scare as I discovered a rat snake inside the little wooden dollhouse next to my front door(!) (for inquiring minds the snake preferred the 'loft' of the dollhouse as opposed to the first floor) I've no doubt that he had either already consumed the frog that lounges carefree in the dog's water bowl every evening or he had a sinister plan to join the frog for a dip when the sun went down. I guess I'll find out tonight if Mr. Frog is a no-show.

Anyone that has seen my chicken coop knows how much attention I paid to building it and making certain there were no holes big enough for a snake to get in and steal my eggs. Or worse! So last week, I noticed a big critter, most likely a raccoon, had tried to dig his way in under the entrance door, the only place on the whole coop that doesn't have wire buried underneath. Smart raccoon. Anyway, he pulled away a small piece of tin and moved a sizable rock that was blocking the gap. I suppose after a while he realized how futile his efforts were and gave up on dining on a chicken. That's the good news. The bad news is, he left a big gap for another, slithering critter, to get in. So once again, I got quite a start when I went into the coop last week to gather my morning eggs and there was a checkered garter snake just hanging out amongst the birds waiting for an egg to drop. Being the resourceful country gal I like to think I am, I grabbed the biggest barbecue tongs I could find, a five gallon bucket and some gloves. Voila! Snake outta' the coop. Apparently however, the snake must have really bonded with his new-found feather friends because he tried, in vain, to re-enter the coop for about 15 minutes after I released him. I observed him intently to make sure he didn't find some nook or cranny I had overlooked. Finally he slithered off without an egg snack.

It's a virtual wildlife show around here.

It's truly amazing to me that my chickens even lay eggs in this persistent heat. I've taken to bringing them a big chunk of ice everyday (a gallon water container cut in half and frozen in the freezer the night before) and they just LOVE it! They peck at it non-stop and then settle in next to it to cool off. It eventually melts and they have cool water to drink.

So who knows what critter/critters will visit my house in the coming weeks in search of water or food. If only it would rain! My outside thermometer, in the shade nonetheless, reads 99.1 at this moment. And just for the record, Summer doesn't even start until June 21st. Awesome. As well, the Austin area is forcasted triple digits all next week. With no cloud cover.


Anyone have a margarita machine they want to get rid of? Or a snow cone stand? Or a swimming pool?

Till next time,
Stay cool,

Sally Anne

Wildflowers, Part I

If you live in Central Texas and ever venture outside these days, which I certainly hope you do, then you are fully aware that it hasn't rained around here in some time. And... it's rather warm. In fact, if this weather pattern continues until the end of the month (anyone wanna' bet?) then Austin, Texas will have just experienced its' warmest April on record since record keeping began in 1854! The average temperature this month is a whopping 8.4 degrees above normal. And while we're on the topic of numbers and weather, the past 7 month period of October through April will most likely turn out to be the 3rd driest on record, with only 5.31" of rain during that period. Now, if you know me, you know I tend to be a bit obsessed about weather. I'm constantly glued to the weather radar screen like some people are to their favorite TV show. Yes, I wear a wristwatch that indicates barometric pressure drop and temperature. I have three outdoor thermometers, one of them digital and measures relative humidity. I have a rain gauge and a wind vane. Total geek.
Now in my defense, I do work outdoors all day long, every day, with little respite from the elements and like to be informed. My water source at my house comes from whatever the sky feels like sharing and is collected in a tank alongside my home. And I have a righteous garden that is not very happy right now. So, my obsessive/compulsive disorder about weather is understandable.
All this dry, sunny weather is great for outdoor weddings, backyard barbecues and painting your new deck. However, this weather pattern has deprived me and many other nature lovers from one of our favorite things about Spring in the Hill Country. Wildflowers.
The state flower of Texas, the bluebonnet, which was out in full force last Spring has been a virtual no-show this season. I have yet to spot even a single one at Rockmoor this year. In fact I have to really pay attention and look closely to find any wildflowers at all! The good news is, I have found some and want to share them with you. It goes to show that even in a prolonged drought as we are currently in, Texas wildflowers are adaptable and amazingly resilient.
So this is a sampling of what I found at the ranch in the month of April. It's ironic that I found a few Rain Lillies (the white one pictured above) as their fragrant blooms usually only pop open a few days after a heavy rain. We've only had trace amounts of rainfall at Rockmoor this past month. There is a slight chance for rain this coming weekend so I have my fingers crossed.
I'll post more pictures in Part II soon. Hope everyone has a great weekend.

Sally Anne

Too close for comfort

Hello everyone
Unless you've been living under a 'proverbial' rock these days then you are aware of the remarkable wildfire season the state of Texas is experiencing right now. All but two counties in the state have had significant fires with over a million acres damaged and over 170 homes destroyed. The perfect storm of low humidity, hot, dry weather patterns and high winds have created ideal conditions for wildfires to take over. And take over they have.
If you haven't already learned, the Oak Hill area of Austin experienced a major wildfire outbreak in a subdivision neighborhood last Sunday. Eleven homes were destroyed and twelve more severely damaged. The fire covered more than 100 acres but thankfully no one was injured. Damage has been estimated at 5 million dollars. The neighborhood, near Scenic Brook Dr., off Highway 290 is surrounded by 'urban wildlands', as they are called. Large, dense thickets of cedar and mixed oak woodlands surrounding residential homes. Reports from local media have cited the fire was caused by a homeless man, camping out in the nearby woods, cooking over an open fire. He wasn't paying attention and an ember flew from the fire and caught quickly in the nearby vegetation. The fire then rapidly grew in a matter of minutes and wasn't completely extinguished and 100% contained until 3 days later. In the meantime, the area was evacuated and many families lost their homes.

As the crow flies, this fire was approximately 2 miles away from Rockmoor. It is rather unsettling to stand on one's balcony and see huge clouds of smoke so close to home. And knowing that you are surrounded on all sides by thick cedar breaks which are highly, highly flammable. Reality check.

Travis County saw three other fires on that very same day and resources were pushed to the limits. The following day all Travis County Park employees (of which I am one) were told to refrain from using any big equipment, chainsaws, mowers, ect. to prevent a spark until further notice. The Park that I work at saw a fire just three days before the big one in Oak Hill caused by the spark from a sub-contractor using a welder. It caused about an acre of damage in less than 20 minutes. This sub-contractor was not utilizing the proper safety precautions and the Fire Marshall who arrived on the scene slapped him with a fine that could possibly reach upwards to $30,000 (!!!) The authorities in Travis County are treating the matter fire hazard very, very seriously.

So the moral of this story should go without saying. Please, please be very careful when visiting the ranch this fire season. Travis County has been in a burn ban for a while now and will most likely continue until weather patterns change. Just three weeks ago when I hosted a backyard barbecue for some friends I started a small ambient campfire, like I always do, to have for folks to sit around. After a few minutes of watching the high winds carry off some embers from my tiny fire I decided that this 'was a very bad idea' and decided to put it out. I like to think of myself as some savvy outdoorswoman but that was a bad judgment call on my part.

I shudder at the thought of a fire getting out of control at the ranch. There is really little that we can do. The best defense that we have for a fire is prevention. Hands down. If you are visiting the ranch this season and will be engaging in any activity that has potential for creating a fire just use some common sense and exercise extreme caution. Avoid tossing cigarette butts carelessly, have water close by, have a fire extinguisher handy (and know how to use it!) and have another set of 'eyes' watching out for stray sparks or embers. Better still, just refrain from whatever activity it is that might create a possible fire hazard until we receive some decent rainfall around here.

With that said, stay tuned for 'Wildflower Report' coming soon.
Till then, be safe. And pray for rain!

Sally Anne


*photo G. Dada, Austin American Statesman*

Diamondbacks are NOT a girl's best friend

The first Spring after moving into my house I became acquainted, most reluctantly, with one of my 'neighbors' in an early afternoon encounter. I was busily doing laundry upstairs, windows and doors flung open, enjoying the perfect Texas weather. I soon heard both of my dogs barking and didn't think much of it. After a few minutes of this incessant noise-making I stepped outside to quiet them and perhaps catch sight of what they were so focused at. A squirrel, a lizard, a perched buzzard, I thought. As I gave a 'What's going on out there you two? Hush!" they ceased their distressed 'woofs' and I then could clearly make out the unmistakable buzzing sound. I flung myself frantically down the stairs and immediately called the dogs inside with a stern parental voice. Once they were safely inside I walked, in shorts and flip flops no less, casually over to the offended neighbor, "Ok, Mr. Snake, that's much too close. Where are you?" I scrutinized the area where the dogs were a few times. Nothing. I moved a little closer. My eyes scanned the area at least three or four times before I saw him. I then met the gaze of the biggest rattlesnake I have ever seen. My heart jumped. It didn't look real, it was so enormous. I then uttered something that isn't appropriate for all readers. One can imagine.
He was rattling and hissing and coiled and, well, pissed off! He was also much too close to my front porch, to my dogs. I was about to kill a rattlesnake. It wasn't the first one I had killed, there had been two before. But they were smaller. And not quite so evil looking.
Now, anyone that knows me, knows that I am an animal lover and have a very healthy respect for all creatures. Even the ones that scare us and can harm us. I lived several years in Grizzly country for goodness sakes! However, the thought of having this prehistoric looking, venom laden reptile slithering around my house where my dogs nap was not an image I was ok with. If I had seen him on the road, or at the creek, anywhere but 15 feet from my front porch, I would have let him quietly pass. But he wasn't. So...he died. He turned out to be just under 6 feet long. Yikes!
With that said, as a child, visiting Rockmoor I never saw a rattlesnake, or any snake for that matter. I only remember the mason jar full of rattles at the farmhouse that came from the unfortunate victims of Uncle Dee's shotgun no doubt. But when I was younger I didn't know where to look. Now I do. And I see them all the time. Are you getting creeped out yet?
Texas has ten different species of rattlesnakes, more than any other state, except for Arizona. The Western Diamondback rattlesnake is the most common in these parts and chances are if you've seen a rattlesnake at the ranch it was the Western Diamondback. The Crotalus Atrox, as it is scientifically known, falls in the family of 'pit viper'. These are distinguished by their triangular head and small pits under their catlike eye pupils. Pit vipers are usually characteristically thick bodied with short hollow fangs that lie flat in the upper jaw but swing down when the snake opens the mouth to inject venom in prey. The distinctive diamond pattern of the Western Diamondback runs the length of the snakes body serving as a very effective camouflage. Of course, the tell-'tail' (pun intended) is the set of rattles at the base of the snake's spine. These rattles are made up of keratin, the same stuff that makes up fingernails in humans. In prime conditions, snakes shed their skins every 6-12 weeks and each time adding a 'button' to the base of their rattles. This, in turn, replaces the terminal sections that periodically break off. It has been calculated that the rattles cycle between 40-60 times a second when the snake has them in use. This speed produces the high buzzing sound that is so eerily familiar. Once you hear it, you'll never forget it.
At this time of the year, rattlesnakes are most active during the day (April and May) when milder temperatures prevail. However, June through August, rattlesnakes put an end to their diurnal (daytime) activities and seek shelter in the oppressive heat of the day. During these months you are more likely to see a rattlesnake early morning or evening. Just about the time you're taking a walk around the ranch. How convenient.
In Texas, breeding takes place in both Spring and Fall when numbers of diamondbacks are found in close proximity. The female gives birth to about 10-20 young, all born alive. They don't hatch from an egg, which is a commonly held belief. These young snakes leave the mother almost immediately, within hours, and are born with one button at their tail and are fully capable of administering a venomous bite. Many people believe that the bite of a juvenile snake is more venomous because the younger snake does not have as much control over the flow of venom. Makes sense to me, but I can't find the scientific proof to back that up. And I have no intention of testing that theory out. These babies will average 3-4 feet in length when they mature, however there are documented reports of some closer to 8 feet long.
Rattlesnakes aren't aggressive in the sense that they 'will come after you or drop from a tree and attack a person'. In fact, rattlesnakes are poor climbers and one almost never sees them in trees. They favor the rocky slopes and outcroppings. And they won't attack unless they feel threatened or are suddenly surprised. I've gazed for long periods of time up close at a rattlesnake and he didn't seem to mind. But as soon as I got a little too close for comfort he quickly coiled up ready to defend. And be careful around a fully coiled rattlesnake for they are able to strike at a distance equal to half their body length. Of course, common sense goes a long way. NEVER put your hands or feet somewhere that you can't see.
I heard an amusing statistic in my Wilderness First Responder first-aid class once that I always thought was funny. "90% of all snake bites occur in the middle of the day, involving a 20 something male, intoxicated, in the presence of a female." Who knows if that's true, but fellas, don't try and impress the ladies with your snake charmer abilities. Never try and handle a rattlesnake. They may not be aggressive, but they are highly defensive.
And what do you do in the extremely unlikely case that you get bit by a rattlesnake? Go to the hospital fool!! Don't try any fancy tourniquets or incisions to try and suck the poison out, you will likely do far more damage that way. Get medical attention as soon as you can. You need to be administered antivenom. It is highly, highly unlikely that you will die. Most deaths with rattlesnakes involve very small children, very elderly or ill people. And those cases involved individuals who were many hours away from definitive care. (Seton Southwest off 290 is approximately 12 minutes away from the ranch-fyi)
The venom of a rattlesnake contains both neurotoxically active peptide components and a larger complement of enzymatic fractions that destroy blood and tissue. It is a hemotoxin (toxic to the blood) and can work as an anticoagulant. Interestingly, rattlesnakes are not immune to their own venom and can kill another rattlesnake if it is bitten.
Rattlesnakes have few natural predators so they tend to flourish in numbers. Birds of prey, such as hawks or owls, have been known to swoop down on a rattlesnake and make a meal, but it is not a common occurrence. On the other hand, rattlesnakes feed on rodents, frogs, lizards, small birds, and even small rabbits and squirrels. They often don't need to eat but once every two to three weeks and their annual water intake equals roughly their body weight.
There are two snakes in this area that are often mistaken for a rattlesnake, thus, inadvertently, killed because they are thought to be venomous. The Rat snake and the Bull snake are often confused for a rattlesnake due to their similar skin patterns. And to create even more confusion both of these snakes, when stressed, tend to vibrate their tail, giving the impression of their venomous counterpart. Yet, they do not have rattles. Even though both of these snakes has the ability to bite, they are not poisonous. I see Rat snakes fairly often around the ranch. This is a good thing because they help control the rodent population. When I hear the argument that we need rattlesnakes to keep the mice and rats in check, I remind them that there are other, non-poisonous, alternatives. A few years back I started noticing signs of a mouse (or mice) in my house. I often, quite often, keep my door open in nice weather and much to my surprise, or shock I should say, I found a rat snake piled up behind a framed picture in my kitchen. Finding a snake in one's house is never a pleasant experience and not one I care to repeat. However...after the shock wore off and a few days passed I noticed that the mice 'problem' disappeared. I think that 'ol Rat snake sensed food and saw an open door and just made himself at home. (like the mouse, I guess) And then slept off his meal in my kitchen. And much better to have a Rat snake in the house than a rattler. And even better to not have either!!
So not all snakes are 'bad' snakes. In fact, most are good and shouldn't' be killed just because it's a snake. And if you do happen upon a rattlesnake at the ranch, just give it a wide berth and don't make it feel threatened. It doesn't want to be around you anymore than you want to be around it, trust me.
Now that I've completely made everyone paranoid, I promise my next entry will be on something a little more harmless.

Till then,

Sssssssally Anne

Think before you prune!

Well, Spring is getting closer and closer everyday here in the Hill Country. The Redbuds are blooming their beautiful splash of color that is so eye catching in front of a backdrop of green junipers. The fragrant scent of agaritas in bloom wafts in the air as you walk about the ranch. And it's so fun to try and spot the Sandhill Cranes overhead as they fly in V-shaped formations day after day sounding their trumpetlike song heading North to cooler climes. Daytime temperatures reached into the eighties this past week, yet evenings are still cool enough for a jacket. Perfect weather! And if it ever rains again (I feel another brutal summer approaching) we might have some wildflowers to admire.
As the days heat up, not only do the birds and plants become more active, but a particular little beetle comes out of a winter's dormancy. The Nitidulid beetle is rather infamous around here as it is the little critter that carries the deadly spores of the Oak wilt fungus on its body. For those of you not familiar with Oak wilt, it is a deadly disease that has been responsible for the loss of over 10,000 trees in the Austin area over the past 15 years. Oak wilt is found in over 25 states in the U.S. and over 65 counties in Texas alone. Oak wilt is one of the most destructive tree disease in the U.S and is killing oak trees in Central Texas at epidemic proportions. This fungus, known as Ceratocystis Fagacearum, invades and colonizes in the water conducting tissues of healthy oaks. The reaction of the tree to this invasion results in the blockage of these water conducting tissues, ultimately resulting in 'die back.'. Infection and death of a tree can occur very quickly and the disease is able to spread rapidly within an area. Oak wilt has created some very devastating results. In Austin, property values have been considerably reduced in some places due to the loss of old growth Oaks. Also, increased utility bills is something to consider in urban areas when a giant tree has been lost that used to shade the house from the brutal sun.
I understand Oak wilt is probably not what you want to think about when you think of Spring at the ranch. However, I got to wondering that many of you might not be aware of the damage that this fungus is able to produce. And since Rockmoor is home to many beautiful Oaks, I believe a bit of knowledge and education on prevention is beneficial. The more folks visiting Rockmoor that are aware of this disease the better chance we have of preventing it.
There are three types of Oaks, the Reds (Spanish, Blackjack,Shumard, ect.) the Whites(Post, Chinkapin, Lacey, Shin) and the Live Oaks (mainly the Escarpment; what the 'big tree' is down at the creek) Rockmoor has all three types. The Red Oaks are particularly susceptible to oak wilt and when infected generally die within the course of a single summer. The White Oak group is somewhat less susceptible and when infected can live several years after infection, losing branches over time from the top down. The Live Oak susceptibility is somewhat variable, depending on certain conditions, but wilt and death usually occur within 6 months of infection. Oaks with oak wilt stand out with their dead crowns compared to a green canopy in the summer. So much,that infection can be see spotted from the air.
Oak wilt can spread two ways. One is from the transfer of spores from diseased trees to healthy trees by insect 'vectors'(our little beetle friend). The other way is from the movement of the fungus from a diseased tree to a healthy one via root grafts.
The 'overland' transmission begins with a Red Oak. After a tree has died, spores on a fungal mat are formed under the bark. As this mat grows it expands. Eventually this expansion of the mat cracks the bark open. This fungal mat has a distinct odor. The Nitidulid beetle is attracted to this fruity smell. The beetle thus enters the mat to feed. And he gets the sticky spores all over him and then he travels to another tree. These beetles are drawn to the fresh 'wounds' of trees emitting sap. The oak wilt spores then infect another tree. (kinda' sci-fi creepy, huh?) Experiments have shown that these little beetles are able to travel over a mile and can appear on a fresh wound of a tree in 15 minutes. Or less! Because these beetles don't have 'chewing mouth parts' they need some other creature or physical damage to create an open wound. Thus, and this is VERY IMPORTANT, NEVER, NEVER prune an Oak in the Spring to early Summer months (let's say February to June in Texas) unless you plan on immediately painting the wound with a pruning sealant. (black paint works just fine) If a tree becomes damaged from a storm or construction, as will happen, that wound needs to be painted as soon as possible. In extreme cold or extreme heat the beetle is not active, thus these are the best time for pruning Oaks.
Live Oaks tend to be infected by oak wilt via the root system, which is very difficult to control. Trees within 50 feet of one another can be infected. Trees of the same family tend to interconnect their root systems, called root grafts. And the oak wilt will travel through these roots. Spores that have been produced inside the tree travel through the vascular tissue. The leaves on a diseased Live Oak often develop yellow (chlorotic) veins that eventually turn brown (necrotic). This symptom is identified as 'veinal necrosis'. And this a good diagnostic tool to identify oak wilt. The picture at the top of this entry is a classic veinal necrosis image.
Foilar symptoms on Red Oaks is less distinct, they are more readily identified by the fungal mats. These mats on Red Oaks can be found by looking for incongruous narrow cracks in the bark of a dying tree that leads to hollow areas between the bark and wood. It often has the distinct odor of fermenting fruit, that the beetle is so fond of.
So how can you treat Oak Wilt if it's discovered? The most common technique is trenching with a big piece of equipment (trencher, rock saw,ect.) The point of trenching is to sever the root systems from one tree to the next in order to save the healthy ones that have yet to be infected. The area is typically trenched within 100 feet on all sides of the infected area. As far as utilizing a fungicide there is only one that has proven effective for Live Oaks, it's called Propiconazole. Also known as AlamoTM. It is essentially injected into the tree. I've seen both of these methods utilized and it's quite a bit of work. Not to mention very expensive.
Of course the best way to treat oak wilt is prevention. Painting and sealing all cuts on a tree is absolutely essential. This cannot be stressed enough. And if you do suspect an infected tree, quick removal is vital. If everyone keeps an eye out for sick trees and practices common sense when pruning then we should enjoy our healthy Oaks around Rockmoor for generations to come.

Now if we could just find some disease to help us thin out these invasive Ashe Junipers....


Till next time,

Sally Anne


*photo- Oak Wilt Specialist of Texas

That famous little yellow bird...

Late last winter, I was greeting visitors at the county Park I work at in far western Travis county. A gentleman drove up in a late model hatchback with out-of-state plates. I noticed a pair of binoculars and a new copy of a 'Texas Birds" book on his dash. "Good morning sir, have you been here before?" I cheerfully said to one the first visitors of the day. "Naw, just came to see that famous bird. Where can I find it?" I had to think for a minute, because spring migration hadn't started yet, and there was nothing really of special interest to see right now, as far as birds go. "Um, do you mean the Golden-Cheeked Warbler? I don't know if they've arrived yet", trying to sound a bit unsure as to not let him down. "Yeah, Yeah, that yella' wobbler! Where can I see it? he said enthusiastically, obviously not catching the hint. (sigh. oh well....) " Yes sir, just go to the far end of the parking lot. Take the bluff trail down a few hundred yards, take a left at the landing, follow the creek 'bout a quarter mile, then be on the lookout for a big stand of oaks on your right, creekside, and start looking", I replied with authority. After all, I was in uniform. (a uniform adorned with the likeness of a golden cheeked warbler nonetheless) "Thanks so much" he said earnestly, as if he had just received some top secret insider information. I shouted a "Good luck!" after him, knowing full well he was too early in the season. Was he a serious birder? Maybe. Was he a beginner birder? Definitely. But it didn't really matter. This fellow was going to have an adventure trying to spot one of the rarest songbirds in North America.

People travel far and wide to catch a glimpse of the Golden Cheeked Warbler, a beautiful, small, yellow songbird streaked with black, that arrives in the Hill Country of Texas in early to mid March. Texas can boast, amongst other things, of having more bird species than any other state in North America, nearly 600. The sheer size of the state, 275,416 square miles, contributes to this biological diversity. And many birds that are sighted in Texas occur nowhere else in the nation thus prompting bird watchers from around the world to 'flock' to see them. Not only do many warm weather species nest in the Lone Star State but north-bound ones also pass through on their long migration flight. Many of these birds just remain for the winter (like a lot of my friends it seems!) before heading back to cooler climes as the oppressive Texas heat takes hold. The birds of Texas change with the seasons.

So back to our little 'famous' bird....
Several things make the Golden Cheeked Warbler special. Of the 360 bird species that breed in Texas, the warbler is the only one to nest exclusively in central Texas, more specifically in stands of mixed old growth Ashe Juniper (known as cedar 'round here) and oak woodlands(live oak, red oak, shin oak and lacey oak) on the Edwards Plateau. This selective type of behavior labels our little warbler a 'habitat specialist'. (which sounds more like a wildlife biologist than a 'picky little bird') These forests MUST be mature because the female utilizes the long, stringy bark of the Ashe Juniper to weave her nest. And by mature I mean the ashe juniper needs to be at least 17 feet in height and the oaks over 20 feet. For whatever reason, the bark of young cedar is not suitable for the female warbler. After meticulously weaving this nest she will bind it with bits of spider webs and line it with fur, feathers or grasses she finds, to cushion the 3-4 speckled eggs she will lay.

If you haven't caught on yet, the habitat I'm describing sure sounds quite a bit like Rockmoor. Well Sherlock, you would be correct to assume that Rockmoor IS ideal habitat for this little yellow warbler. So if I asked, "Does anyone know what animal at Rockmoor has something in common with a Giant Panda? Anyone? (and it's not a raccoon) If you said, the Golden Cheeked Warbler, you would be correct! They are both listed on the "Endangered Species" list. To put that in perspective, they are lower on the list than say, the Mountain Gorilla which is listed as 'critically endangered'. But higher than the Polar Bear, which has only attained 'vulnerable' status. (sorry Frosty-but don't worry, if us humans keep running the show you'll be there soon enough)

So what is an Endangered Species? By definition, it is "a population of organisms which is at risk of becoming extinct because it is either few in numbers or threatened by changing environmental or predation parameters". If we consider the Mountain Gorilla, the Giant Panda, the Polar Bear and yes, the Golden Cheeked Warbler, we are mainly talking about loss of habitat. Period. These wonderful, amazing creatures are running outta' places to live. Quite simply.
Now, I can hear some of you , "but Sally, a warbler ain't no Panda Bear". Yeah, well if I lived in China, or Africa, or the North Pole, I would be putting in the good fight for those at risk animals. But I don't. I live in Central Texas. And 'my' endangered animal is the warbler. And it lives in my backyard. And I think that's really cool! Biological diversity is crucial to the balance of Nature. Living in a mono-culture of, say, cedar and coyotes only, is not good for anyone or anything. Note: It is estimated that 1 in every 8 bird species in the world is at risk of extinction.
And recent surveys have reported a loss of up to 45% of suitable habitat for our warbler over a 10 year period. That's a lotta' land!

The GCW (yeah, you guessed it, Golden Cheeked Warbler) needs at least 250 acres of continuous forest patch, amongst the appropriate woodland, to nest. This size of acreage is becoming less and less available, as land cleared for development is increasing. Habitat for this bird is rapidly being lost or altered in some way due to urban sprawl and poor land management practices. Ongoing fragmentation of the remaining available habitat also creates further problems by isolating certain populations and thus reducing the flow of genes amongst them. This can potentially create a loss of genetic diversity.

GCW's are doubly threatened as they are losing their tropical rainforest winter habitat as well. Warblers only stay in Texas for about three months (from March till about June-give or take) and then fly south to Mexico and Central America. The rainforests that they frequently spend their winter months in are rapidly vanishing due to development also.

In addition to all this habitat loss, the GCW has also to contend with the dreaded Brown Headed Cowbird. This particular bird is known as a 'parasite' bird. It lays its' eggs in the nests of other birds (uh...rude!) and then the unfortunate foster parents are faced with having to feed too many mouths. And, more importantly, the Cowbird eggs tend to hatch at a faster rate and as a result have a higher survival rate. Brown Headed Cowbirds, studies have shown, have impacted the mortality rates of GCW's quite negatively, as they seem to favor the nests of songbirds. Thus, when biologists are formulating a GCW habitat management plan for protection, the Brown Headed Cowbird is almost always considered. And by that I mean, there is also 'management' (i.e.-trap and dispose of) for the Cowbird. I've had experiences with setting up and managing cowbird traps every spring for the past few years. It is an unpleasant duty to undertake, but like feral hogs, a necessary one.

Listing this species as 'endangered' is not without controversy. Landowners may be restricted in certain aspects of development on their land if it is discovered that a pair of nesting warblers are residents. Just imagine, if a pair of Giant Pandas decided that your backyard was an awesome place to start a family. ('bear' with me here, haha) The authorities might not want you to add on that extra storage space behind the garage for fear you might frighten or stress them. Pandas might not like power tools. Or any loud noises. At the Park I work at, after March 1st we are forbidden to use any loud tools, chainsaws or machines, in or near, Golden Cheeked Warbler habitat. It's the law!
In fact, in 2006, Ft.Hood military training base, lost 119 days of live-fire trainings as a result of restrictions on access because of the endangered Golden Cheeked Warbler. How do you think that was received?
And since about 97% of the land in Texas is privately owned, chances are the warbler is going to find suitable habitat on someones property. Like ours. And not a bird friendly park or preserve.
The authorities and government agencies responsible for the bird's protection realize this dilemma and in turn have offered reasonable incentives for landowners to 'jump on board' and help in the conservation of the GCW. I happen to feel it is a blessing, and not a burden to be one of the few places in Texas, in North America...in the world! that this little bird chooses to call home for a little while. But I realize, some people don't share that opinion.

In early to mid March, the male warblers arrive first and establish a territory about 10 acres in area. Older males usually reclaim the previous year's site and immediately defend it with song, among other things such as chases and physical attacks. But it is this song, often described as a "bzzzz layzeee dayzeee" that marks the beginning of Spring for me. And because a warbler is only 4.5 inches tall and not easily spotted, their song is how I find them.

Rockmoor has a very, very healthy bird population. All sorts of summer and winter migrating avians pass through our juniper and oak woodlands. It truly is a birder's paradise. So if you happen to be visiting Rockmoor this Spring, bring along some binoculars and listen for the buzzing sound of the Golden Cheeked Warbler. And when you finally spot one, you'll be witnessing a very rare piece of natural history. Just one more thing that makes Rockmoor a special place indeed.


Happy birding!

Sally Anne


*photo: Steve Maslowski/USFS

J. Frank Dobie

Several Christmases ago, my mother gifted me with an original copy of J. Frank Dobie's 1931 classic work, 'On the Open Range'. The kind of old book whose hardbound binding is falling apart and faded at the seams from countless openings and closings. Worn pages, lightly darkened at the edges through years of captivated fingers turning pages. And most curiously, this treasured book has a very distinct smell (as old books do) reminiscent of my Grandfathers' garage, that was filled with, amongst countless other things, boxes upon boxes of books.
J. Frank Dobie, for those of you unfamiliar, was an American folklorist and writer best know for his depiction of rural Texas, and the Southwest, in all its richness and tradition, in the days of the open range. It has been said that he is the first well known Texas author to be recognized internationally for his writing work. But Dobie was also known in his lifetime, as a public figure, for his outspoken liberal views against Texas state politics. The FBI actually secretly investigated Dobie during the McCarthy era as one of Texas' leading dissenters. I sum him up as a John Muir/Edward Abby combined with a Molly Ivins/Jim Hightower. Basically, someone I could totally hang out with around a campfire and throw back a few beers with.

After receiving this book, I prominently placed it on a shelf that helped add a little 'rustic' to my home, never bothering to actually read it. Many months passed, and then one day it caught my eye and I picked it up and began turning pages and reading a few paragraphs. I became mesmerized as Dobie began describing with remarkable clarity the land of the Southwest that I so dearly loved and had spent countless times wandering, alone and with friends. I was completely drawn in. He 'spun yarns' about cowboys and Indians, long traildrives and hidden gold; the true old Wild West. I believe the book rested on my nightstand for a few weeks as I read and re-read stories and tales of the open range. I then sought out other writings of Dobie and became equally as charmed and delighted. Thus, my affection for Dobie began.

He loved the outdoors and the miracle of Nature with a passion that I can identify with and embrace. Anyone that writes these words is an inspiration to me..."For me the beautiful resides in the physical, but it is spiritual. I have never heard a sermon as spiritual in either phrase or fact as 'waters on a starry night are beautiful and free'. No hymn lifts my heart higher than the morning call of the bobwhite or the long fluting cry of sandhill cranes out of the sky at dusk. I have never smelled incense in a church as refining to the spirit as a spring breeze laden with the aroma from a field of bluebonnets." Another favorite quote of mine Dobie uttered was when he was on a teaching fellowship at Cambridge University in England and was getting 'grilled' on the American Constitution. He explained to the relentless room of young British academics that he hadn't read the Constitution since he was a boy and didn't understand it then. But that he DID know 'the length of horns on longhorn steers, the music inherent in coyote howling and the smell of coffee boiled over mesquite wood". Another audience put at ease by Dobie's charm and quick wit.

Dobie was born on a Texas ranch in September of 1888, the eldest of six children. He lived on this ranch, of 7000 acres, until he was 16. In 1910 he graduated from Southwestern University in Georgetown and later earned a master's degree from Columbia University in New York City, in 1913. The next year he joined the faculty of the University of Texas, leaving in 1917 to serve in the field artillery in WWI. He returned to the faculty in 1919 only to leave once again after becoming dissatisfied with the academic life. For a while he managed his uncles ranch, a quarter of a million acres(!) along the Nueces River. It was here that Dobie conceived the idea to which he then devoted his life. The collecting and retelling of legends and folk tales of Texas.

He returned, once again, to UT, and in 1922 became the Secretary of the Texas Folklore Society, a position he held for 21 years. His first book was published in 1929, "A Vaquero in Brush Country". In 1933 Dobie became a full professor in the English department of UT, thus becoming the first native Texan to receive a full professorship in that department at the University. This was unusual as Dobie did not hold a PhD. He was asked often about this, prompting his famous quote "The average PhD thesis is nothing but a transference of bones from one graveyard to the another". Dobie taught 'Life and Literature of the Southwest' at UT. His obituary called it the most popular course at the University.

Prior to his professorship and after a yearlong research grant Dobie took the time to make a 2000 mile trek, on muleback, across the Southwest gathering folklore. He notes his research was found around campfires, trading posts and chuck wagons.

While quite popular with students and fellow professors, Dobie often clashed with the University's regents over policy and politics. His insistence on 'free-range' thinking led him to preach such radical actions as full integration of the University of Texas. In the 1940's! As you can imagine, this was not well received by the governing body of The University.
He was well known among his contemporaries for his long personal war against what he believed to be as 'bragging Texans, religious prejudice, restraints on individual liberty and the assault of the mechanized world on the human spirit." Dobie boldly fought for labor, free speech and civil rights well before these causes became acceptable to most Anglo Texans.
What on earth would Dobie think of Texas politics today?

"I have come to value liberated minds as the supreme good life on earth"-J. Frank Dobie


So what does J. Frank Dobie have to do with Rockmoor? Well, back in 1959, after a severe illness, Dobie sold his ranch in Marble Falls, Texas and bought a 250 acre ranch 14 miles southwest of Austin, which he named Paisano. (paisano is the Spanish name for the ground bird 'chaparral' more commonly known as a 'roadrunner') Paisano, as many of you know, lies adjacent to Rockmoor and shares a fenceline. Dobie used this ranch as a writer's retreat until his death in 1964. Following his death there was then a movement, amongst his friends and contemporaries, to preserve the ranch. Shortly after, in 1966, the deed was handed over to the University of Texas. The mission statement of Paisano stated, "Paisano will be operated by the University of Texas as a permanent memorial to J. Frank Dobie and the primary use will be to encourage creative artistic efforts in all fields, particularly writing. It will be kept in its present, more or less, natural state and the ranch house will be kept in simple style, very much as it was when Frank Dobie occupied it."
Two fellowships, of six months, are awarded each year by a committee chosen by the presidents of the University of Texas and the Texas Institute of Letters. The applicants must be native Texans, or Texas residents for at least two years or persons whose writing is substantially identified with the state. It is quite an honor for a writer to be chosen. The list of past 'fellows' is an impressive one. All are published authors with many familiar names.

I recently contacted the director of the Paisano Fellowship program and have set up a visit to Paisano in the coming weeks. I hope to share that experience with you afterwards. I'm eager to see with my own eyes this historical place that I have heard so much about since childhood. Dobie has settled into his own place in Texas history and I think it's very special that he lived and worked so close to Rockmoor. It's not everyday that one has a neighbor that is inducted into the Western Writers Hall of Fame (1986) or is awarded the Medal of Freedom by an American President(fellow Texan Lyndon Johnson in 1964). Not to mention one who is buried in the Texas State Cemetery in downtown Austin. Dobie is a bona fide slice of Texas history, as well as American, and he lived right down the road. I like to think that he paid Rockmoor a visit a time or two.


If any of you plan on traveling the deserts of the Southwest or the brush country of Big Bend soon, you should find a copy of Dobie's work and bring it along. I've no doubt you will be delighted, as I am, by his story telling and images he paints with words. And then join me around the campfire at Rockmoor for a few beers and we can tell and retell our own adventures. Because I never get tired of hearing them.

Thanks for the book Mom.

Till next time...

Sally Anne


*photo courtesy of Center for American History*

There are two kinds of ranches...

I recently heard a wise, old Hill Country dweller utter the statement, "There are two kinds of ranches in Texas. Those that have feral hogs. And those that soon will." Rockmoor, as far as I can tell, falls into the latter category. However, I won't be surprised when the day arrives that I find a set of hog tracks on the road or a recent mud wallow down near the creek. Feral hogs are essentially domesticated pigs 'gone wild'. Early Spanish explorers were probably the first to introduce hogs to Texas over 300 years ago. They most likely escaped captivity, or were released for hunting purposes, and have, over time, developed traits for survival in the wild.
The United States is home to more than 4 million feral hogs, also known as Sus Scrofa, their scientific name. Two million of those reside in Texas.
Texas is a big place, so why should we be concerned about a few million pigs? Well, for a whole lotta' reasons I've learned. First off, they are most certainly not a native species and disrupt the natural order of things. Yet, they are able to reproduce at a remarkably rapid rate, making them almost impossible to control by conventional methods. Sows average two litters a year, with 4-10 piglets, and living 6 to 8 years; breeding age is around 7 months. I've been told under ideal circumstances, with a constant food source, a group of hogs is able to double in size within 4 months. Essentially, if you did the numbers, a healthy pig could potentially be responsible for up to 1000 other pigs in a 5 year period. (!!!) Damage caused by wild hogs is destructive to habitat and agriculture. Their rooting and trampling activity for food can damage, extensively, agricultural crops and fields. They also destabilize wetland areas, springs and creeks by their excessive rooting and wallowing. As they root up the ground, they cause weeds to grow where grasses once were, thus shifting the the plant community structure. Not to mention, they compete for food with native animal species, particularly mast crops (acorns) and are quite fond of consuming eggs of native nesting birds. The estimated annual agricultural damage caused by hogs is upwards of up to 52 million dollars. Their increasing numbers have caused so much concern among authorities that the Texas Department of Agriculture (TDA)is seeking participation in a county grant program for the abatement of feral hogs. In short, if you 'dispose' of the most hogs, you win $25,000! Feral hogs are an unprotected, exotic, non-game animal. They may be 'taken' any time of the year, by any method. There are no seasons for hunting them, no bag limits. Also, legislation is in the works at this very moment to make it legal to hunt them by helicopter.

But hunting these wild pigs is easier said than done. There is a good reason George Orwell, in his 1945 classic novel, Animal Farm, made the 'leaders' (however corrupt) of the Farm, pigs. Pigs are smart. Very smart. Hence, very difficult to hunt, much less trap. Pigs have a very heightened sense of smell, rivaling that of any other competing wildlife. They are able to smell, I'm told, up to 50 feet underground and over several miles away above. If they catch even the faintest unfamiliar scent they leave the area. A large round disc of cartilage is connected to muscle that gives their snout extra flexibility. And while most wildlife utilize the same game trails night after night, pigs often take different routes nightly, sometimes leaving an area for months only to return and stay for weeks. Their hearing is also highly developed, making them an extremely challenging prey. In fact, they have few natural predators. The coyote is probably the most successful, stealing a piglet now and again for an evening meal. So places with high coyote populations is a good means of keeping the feral hog numbers down. Rockmoor, without a doubt, is home to many a coyote. So we have that going for us. And hogs are mainly active only at night making that much more difficult to find them.

Wild hogs aren't necessarily known for aggressive and dangerous behavior, yet one needs to be cautious around a sow with piglets and a cornered or injured animal. Male hogs, boars, do have four continually growing tusks, that can reach up to 5 inches before breaking off, and sometimes even longer. These tusks can become quite sharp. As the two tusks on the top jaw rub against the two on the lower mandible they are constantly being sharpened. Yikes!

While hunting and tracking this savvy animal is challenging to say the least, trapping them, I've learned first hand, is also quite an obstacle for all the above mentioned reasons. As many of you know, I work at a county park in far western Travis County, not too terribly far away from Rockmoor. We have recently implemented an aggressive, or so we thought, trapping campaign of feral hogs since our Park has suffered extensive hog damage. We utilize a sizable pen with a trap door. The pen has been baited with soured corn mash (often with beer, diesel and even Gatorade) and potatoes (we use root vegetable since pigs like to 'root' around) We bury the bait and set up a thin trip wire that springs a heavy metal door that comes crashing down behind the unsuspecting animal. In the past month or so, after countless hours of perfecting our well thought out and researched trapping device, we have managed to outwit ZERO of these wild animals. Our high tech wildlife cameras have been the only things doing any 'catching' . That is, catching several deer feeding nonchalantly on the corn scattered about and one rather impressively sized raccoon, on film. No 'Hog-zillas'. Yet just two months ago, as I worked solo clearing cedar in a side canyon not even 300 yards away, I was run up a tree by a 'sounder' (as packs of wild hogs are known) of 14 hogs out on an early afternoon jaunt. They are definitely in the area. And definitely NOT going in our traps.

Feral hog meat is quite delectable if you can actually get hold of one. If you attended my New Year's party this year you know exactly what I'm talking about. It is much leaner than domesticated pig and not as greasy. And as I discovered, a 35lb. pig, feeds about the same number of hungry New Year's revelers. An average mature sow weighs in at about 100 lb, and it is not uncommon to hear reports of boars reaching upwards of 400 lbs. That would be one big New Year's party!

As much as I dislike killing any animal, I realize the necessity of controlling the numbers of feral hogs in the wild. If left unchecked, these animals will continue their expeditious proliferation and continue to disrupt the natural order of things. Their damage to habitat and agriculture will continue to increase. Rockmoor has been lucky thus far. Yet, the topography and landscape, are perfect habitat for feral hogs. I'm constantly looking for signs of them. Like the old timer said, "it's not IF you get hogs. It's WHEN you get 'em."